Tell me about Annie Sloan...

I heaved used her paint but found Rustoleum available in Homebade easier to use and cheaper. The Rustoleum wax is easier to use. You should find a booklet near the paint or if not on line. Autentico also do a chalk paint which I tried on a course I did. I found that better than Annie S too. Might depend what stockists are near you. I found using a small roller good on large areas. Any other queries please ask.

I'd also be interested in any advice - I have a nice little wooden chair that could do with an update.

Dutch dresser done in Rustoleum clotted cream

You'll find plenty of advice on Youtube, Babs - Just type in Annie Sloan chalk paint. There are also books on Amazon showing some of her own projects.

I have done our bedside tables in 'Old White' and it was really easy. You don't have to faff about with elaborate preparation, so long as the tables are clean you can crack on with painting them. You will probably need two coats. I also waxed them to give some depth to the finish.

Her paints are not cheap but one tin goes a long way so I used up the surplus on a couple of old vases and some picture frames.

Good quality brushes are a must and makes the job much easier.

Good Luck!!

A top I got from my course was to use baby wipes to clean the item before painting, no need to rub down before starting. Several thin coats better than thick ones. Are you aiming for "shabby chic"? If so a bunch of keys is good for knocking the edges off!

I like Rustoleum and agree about their wax. However, looking at the instructions it doesn't guarantee to cover any surface with no preparation in the way that Annie Sloan paint does. I've had problems with waxing a piece of furniture that I painted in Annie Sloan Duck Egg because the finish was patchy. I've pretty much furnished a whole house with junk shop/cast off furniture using various chalk paints...one coffee table was about to be thrown out but I decided to Annie Sloan it; it was very highly polished and I doubted if the paint would work, but it did. I varnished the top and it has stood up to the grandchildren playing on it.

...when it comes to waxing I now use a cloth, put some wax onto it [keep the wax near a radiator or somewhere warm so it is soft], rub the cloth on a part of the furniture that won't be seen and then rub the main part with the cloth that has a tiny amount of wax on. I did need to use the waxing brush for the legs on the table, to get into the crevices though. I thought I was Annie Sloan'd out but can't wait to start on something new.

Which varnish did you use, Tegan. I did a dining room table and chairs in 'Old Ochre' and waxed the chairs and table legs but didn't have time to finish the table top before we moved so at the moment it's covered with a PVC cloth.

I think varnish will give it better protection.....if I ever get round to it.

Amazing! Thank you for the photos too - am completely inspired. And thank you for the tips on baby wipes and keys!
Which brushes did you get merlotgran? The branded Annie Sloan ones or a different make?
I might check out the colour option on Rustoleum too once I've finished this project. Thank you so much everyone.
Am now eyeing out my dining room table...

I sent for the Annie Sloan ones, Babs.....Amazon, I think.

I have three round ones - large, medium and small and a craft brush for any fiddly bits. You can use flat brushes as well if you want to.

Like Tegan I use a cloth for waxing. I find you get a better covering but I often finish the whole surface off by giving it a good buff up with the large round brush.

I've also used Rustoleum paint, in fact I did our two winged armchairs in 'Coco'. It gives them a leather-like finish once you've waxed them. Quite a big job though.

Can you use it outside? My plants table could do with a nice wash of blue paint.

I've done plant pots, jingl so you should be able to. I use Cuprinol Shades for outside though.

Anything in my house is at risk of being Annie Sloan'd. I've just done a chest of drawers in it. It's so easy, and therapeutic too.

I ve never used the wax tho-should do as it absorbs dirt and grease without.

Happy Sloaning.

I Annie Sloaned a set of four kitchen chairs, which I'd purchased in 1980. I used a duck-egg blue paint, waxed them and renewed the seat fabrics and they looked fab.

I used the Annie Sloan varnish but I do have other varnishes that seem to work.A problem I have with the paint is that, once I've opened the tin I can't seem to get the top back on as the paint dies on it [also when I decant the paint it dribbles all over the top of the tin]. I tend to just then cover the tin with cling film but that isn't much good if it needs transporting 300 miles back home. I've also bought several brushes for different colours so I don't have to keep washing them...I just cling film them. I've heard that milk paint is very good and would like to try that sometime. They do say that it takes several weeks for the wax to totally harden the paint...something that I hadn't realised. For things like table tops I often just use a foam roller.

I've wondered about decanting a whole tin into a plastic container with a screw or snap on lid, tegan. It's impossible to get the lid back on once opened and the paint thickens very quickly if left uncovered.

My table top is in three sections so at least I won't have to varnish the whole thing in one go.

I've saved up lots of old coffee jars etc to do that. Trouble is that you need a container with a wide base so you can give the paint a good stir before using it. There's one shop where I get my paint from that gives me wooden stirrers; I put some paint in one of those plastic soup cartons [making sure it wasn't an onion'y soup as the smell never goes away!], leave the stirrer in it and cling film the top. The varnish is terrible as well in that, once you've tipped some out you can't get all the varnish off the top so you have to run hot water over it to open it again. The same shopkeeper has also given me some little sanding squares that are washable [I think they're made by Annie Sloan] and they give a really good finish.

.they're called Annie Sloan sanding pads...

DH gets a similar sanding sheet in a strip from our local plumbing merchants. Much cheaper than Annie Sloan.

Good job it's washable because I'm always finding bit of it in his pockets.

I'll check that out. Normal sandpaper just seems to cause scratch marks.

Yes. It's very gentle. I also use it for sanding over holes in a wall I've had to fill with Tetrion.

As a woodturner, I do a lot of "sanding" (if I was a better turner, I would do less )

The modern abrasive sheets all outperform old style sand or garnet paper. Choose a good sharp grit, like the green sheets sold by Wickes etc. Good paper should cut, not wear down the surface.
Buy a selection of grits form 100 - 240. Use the finest grit that will remove the previous scratches, start with the coarsest and progressively go finer until you get the finish you require. DO NOT sand too fast (give the grit time to cut) or with much pressure, if you have to use any pressure, your abrasive is blunt and should be changed. On flat surfaces always use a sanding block to prevent hollows. On wood, sand with the grain.
If you are finishing natural wood with wax, try wire wool impregnated with wax.

Health and safety -- always use a mask (like what I do !!!!, when MrsP is watching or I am choking)

Bet you never knew there were sandpaper anoraks (all woodturners are)

Thanks, pompa. I will copy and paste your advice because I will never remember all that.

LOL, just get the green stuff from Wickes.