Tell me about Annie Sloan...

I find Autentico works best for me, used all three but find it easiest to use and best finish, great colour choice to. Least favourite is Rustoleum. Very addictive be warned, see projects everywhere now. Best was turning old mahogany dresser into smart grey chest with new knobs, love it.

I used Annie Sloan paint on an old chimney pot which was nasty yellow colour and streaked (yes I know that is how they are authentically)It has survived outside all last winter much to my surprise (unwaxed)I am about to do my metal garden table and chairs in a Rustoleum chalk paint as I wanted a particular colour AS dont do
Hope it is a easy and lasting .It is cheaper too.

I up-cycled 3 small pieces of furniture last year. They all were originally that shiny brown wood, and I sanded them down, removing all the veneer then fine sanded to smooth, always in the direction of the grain.
I used Homebase Antique White Matt, 2 coats, new knobs, and they're lovely if I say so myself!

I painted an old charity shop dresser with Annie Sloan. Edged in blue, went over with cream, sanded back where the blue was and waxed. I did a small drop leaf table with left over paint. Really easy to use

Ive done various projects using both Annie Sloan paint and wax and Farrow and Ball which is about the same price but easier to use.
This bookcase was done with Annie Sloan then rollered with a decorative roller then waxed.
Hope the photo posts ok, doesn't always work for me!

Forgot to say that the bookcase is a really cheap IKEA melamine thing in beech effect. The paint worked on that surface too so doesn't have to be wood.

You can always rely on Gransnetters for good, sensible and practical advice. I've been looking at this Annie Sloan upcycling painting for a while and am now inspired to have a go.
HannahLoisLuke Brilliant bookcases, love the roller effect. However did you get it so even?!

Nonanna, thank you. I admit the roller did skid a bit at first and I had to repaint and re roller on one bit. Fortunately you can do that, I did a bedside table three times in different colours and patterns before I was happy with it but then wished I'd left the top in plain pine! Will sand the top back to wood when I can bear to do it again.

We did our wardrobes with Farrow and Ball, but they had to be rubbed, sanded, primed etc, and although they look lovely, it was a lot of work. I've since done some cupboards and an old bureau with AS, and couldn't believe how easy it was. I agree that the tops are best left unpainted if they're in good condition. I used the AS brushes, but found, like others, that waxing was easier with a cloth. Enjoy your project!

I have used Annie Sloan a lot and even have a blog showing my work! www.paintitandsee.blogspot.fr. I have also used Everlong, which does not require wax, just buffing up, so a big time saver. For waxing, I use a washing up sponge, soft side, just wiped over the surface of the wax. You use far less, and less is more for waxing, plus it covers more evenly. Yes, the AS paint can be thick, but just add some water and stir and stir. Often problems with all chalk paint is that the chalk particles are heavy and sink to the bottom of the tin. When you think you have stirred enough, keep going! An old dessert spoon is good to use, as you can scoop the thick stuff up from the bottom. I have found the best varnish is Polyvine Dead Flat varnish available on eBay. No shine at all, although you can get satin finish if you prefer. Good luck.

What lovely paint jobs on your blog fandcgrandma, so inspirational. Have wondered about Annie Sloane but lack your creativity!
Hummingbird DH and I , well mainly him to be honest, have used Farrow and Ball Charleston on some old Ducal dark pine furniture and painted a pale wood fire surround to match. We were so pleased with the effect that the boring beech kitchen units have been painted also. All have been done for a couple of years now and still look good. Occasionally small chips or marks are touched up with some spare paint kept for the purpose. We always buy and use the recommended primer, but I splashed out on a F and B paintbrush and it shed bristles badly.

Loved your blog, fandcgma. I too am a fan of EMMAUS. We are lucky enough to live just a ten minute drive away from a community and have bought many items that are just right for the AS treatment. They deliver for just £10 and take away anything I want to get rid of at the same time.

Not so easy to use as chalk paint but if you want a good washable surface eggshell is very good. I did a dresser some 15 years ago and the paintwork is still good and just wipes clean although it is now out of the house and used for storing stuff. I used Dulux and have also used Farrow and Ball.
I have painted over chalk paint and intend to repainted a garden table with eggshell this year - will just wash the chalk paint first as the wax has worn off but I have had good wear from it.

What about kitchen cupboard doors? They have been cleaned/waxed/ cleaned/polished so often over the years so could need sanding.
There would be quite a lot to do, so is it feasible or would it be better to buy new doors (can't face a whole new kitchen!)

ps forgot to say, they are solid wood

Depends on the finish you want. My outside table ( under a roof) is chalk paint - 2 coats and waxed and polished - but after a few years it is looking a bit distressed which is fine for that - but my kitchen dresser I did with the eggshell still has a perfect finish to it - even the drawer fronts. I think it was an oil based paint but I only did one coat in a yellow and that did cover a sort of blue/green colour. I just wash it with a cloth and maybe a little dishwashing liquid if I think it is really dirty. The eggshell finish is not very shiny.

It seems like a lot of work, but as it is an old kitchen, new doors may not fit unless they are custom-made.

Someone suggested having them 'dipped' - I presume this would be to remove the build-up of wax etc.

My man at home tells me it won't stick to pre-waxed furniture, without preparation first, such as sanding it right back first. Has anyone else used chalk based paint on pre-waxed pine furniture? I was told you could apply it directly on to anything, but the man says no! Don't do it, it won't work. Who is right?

It does work and on varnished finish - I was very sceptical first time and have seen it work on friends bits and pieces. Just make sure it is a clean surface.

I'd give the cupboard doors a wash with sugar soap first then wash again with clean water. It removes grease build up so should do the same with wax. Allow to dry completely then paint. I think water based eggshell would do a good job. I painted my front door three years ago with this and it's as good as new and you can wash the brushes in water.

Thank you everyone - now, just have to get DH in the right mood to do it together (or change the kitchen altogether).

I have been intending to do something with an old pine dresser for ages now & read this yesterday. Being a very impulsive person I couldn't wait to order AS paints online & as I did have a free couple of days (as we had intended to have a lazy Bank holiday) I was off to Homebase yesterday & came back with all I needed using the Rustoleum paint & wax.
I have given the dresser 2 coats of paint & it is looking really good. I am now terrified to try distressing! Never done anything like this before. I used Clotted Cream & not sure if the pine will look good coming through. I haven't got very much paint left at all so if it goes wrong I will have to buy another tin. I rather wish I had used 2 colours but nothing I saw would ave worked with our colour scheme.
Shall I go for it tomorrow or just leave it as it is.? Help & advice please.

Freya&charliesgrandma- WOW!! Such gorgeous projects. I love the round table.
I can see this getting addictive. I already have a craft room full of 'stuff' but never tackled furniture before. DH is going to have a fit!

You can't get it wrong..if it does go wrong you just slap on another coat of paint. That's the beauty of it.

When it came to buying a brush to get at the fiddly parts of a rope-legged table and having seen the price of AS brushes for wax, I used a shaving brush I got for £1.00! And I use Wilko brushes that look like giant watercolour brushesfor the paint too, for the paint, which I buy in Homebase - can't remember the brand but the tin is pale grey