I think she's mellowed a bit - possibly as a result of food critics appearing on tv where any harshness is vastly amplified and personalised compared to when it's just in print.
It's only since programmes such as Masterchef started featuring food critics that the lots of people now recognise them and they're almost moving into "celebrity" status.
I'm quite sure some of them have had to soften their approach a bit - possibly with a bit of media training.
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