Whatever Defoe might have said the fact remains that Stilton cheese was not made at Stilton.
From my' History of Stilton Cheese' (1995). The author lived in the area for 60 years and spent years studying the development of and history of the cheese.
From his book:
Where did the cheese come from? It could have been made locally in small quantities. The land to the east of Stilton was fenland, totally unsuitable for rearing sheep and cattle. To the west were ills, unsuitable as grazing land because of the underlying nature of the soil which produced poor quality grass. It was principally a sheep grazing area. A ready trade link, however,existed with the cheese producing district of east Leicestershire.
To summarise:
1) The land in the immediate vicinity of Stilton was not suitable for dairy cattle.
2) Milk was made on the farm from excess milk from the dairy cattle. Therefore, no dairy cattle, no cheesemaking on the farms around Stilton. No-one in the early 18th C (when Defoe was writing) was going to specially transport their milk from a distance to Stilton in order for it to be made into cheese. On the other hand, cheeses were easier to transport.
3) Stilton was an excellent centre for the marketing of cheese because of its position on the Great North Road. Because it had several inns for the accommodation of travellers they would naturally have cheese made in the surrounding areas for sale. So Defoe would have been offered the cheese for which Stilton was famous because it was marketed there. To think that it was made there would be an easy mistake to make. Though he didn't actually say it was made there, just that it was famous for the cheese.
3) Far from being 'first marketed in the 1830s at the Bell Inn' my author notes The first published reference to a cheese called 'Stilton' is made in William Stukely's 'Itinerarium Curiosa' 1722. That it was a seasoned product was confirmed by Prof. Richard Bradley in his survey of 1727 when he refers to the famous Stilton cheese being offered at the Blue Bell Inn in the town. In addition.....Pope, in 1738, speaks of it in a poem that I'm not going to quote. Not to mention Defoe mentioning it in his book in 1724. If he'd actually been to Stilton,(there being some question of whether he actually did visit all the places he wrote about) he would have been offered the cheese at whatever place he stayed at, most likely an inn. Stilton's inns are very old as they were established to serve travellers on the Great North Road, an extremely ancient road dating back to the Romans in many places.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stilton
Whoever did the rather sketchy 'research' for the BBC programme didn't dig deep enough.
From 'The History of Stilton Cheese' again:
Legend has it that a certain amount of secrecy was involved with regard to the location of the source of supply of the unique blue veined cream cheese, market exclusively from the town of Stilton. The leading retailers implied that it was made in the town and surrounding district. The travellers who visited the town and considered that the cheese was made locally must have been highly gullible town and city dwellers! Where were the dairies capable of producing the quantities that were being offered for sale?