Sewing Patterns

I downloaded a pattern by Burda (always a favourite when DD was small)for DGD and only after cutting it out I discovered that they hadn't included any seam allowance! Thankfully since DGD is a wee skelf all turned out fine.

I have real trouble with trousers. I am large round the trunk but my legs are thinner in comparison. Therefore any trousers that fit my my waist and hips are huge in the legs. I've tried without success to taper them off but it never seems right. Any suggestions?

I tried one of the Amazing fit patterns but it still needed some extra sizing up. Recently I achieved a better fit by cutting the front pattern pieces to fit a 16 and the back to fit a 14. I also have to lengthen the pieces if the garment is styled to fit snuggly at the waist. I always check the measurement from nape to waist as if one is big boobed that takes up some of the length.

I make lot of my own clothes and dressmaking patterns don't have much to do with ready to wear sizes. You need to check your high bust measurement (around your body up under the armpits) and use the pattern size nearest to that and adjust the bust etc if necessary. It also works to check the finished garment measurement on the envelope against a similar garment that fits you okay. I usually buy a size 14 ready to wear but use a size 16 pattern, and have to do a full bust adjustment for my D cup! Simplicity AMAZING FIT range are brilliant because they have different pieces for each bust size. Simplicity also have a good fitting guide on their website. Also like MargaretX says, make up in the lining first!! Good luck: it's lovely when it works out!!!

I nearly got carried away by the styles on this website - so beautifully presented!
www.marfy.it/marfy-sewing-pattern.html
Never ordered one though.

I've managed to pick up vintage patterns for a few projects and its interesting how sizes have subtly increased over the years.
I always measure myself honestly and then check with the pattern pieces - its best not to just assume.
Although I find Burda patterns can be a bit more fiddly (larger pattern pieces have to be stuck together) they do offer very precise sizing and measurement information which is helpful when making something for someone else.
At the moment I'm working on a re-printed 1950s Vogue pattern which is hard work but very rewarding and yes, the sizing is a lot smaller than a modern one for the same size.

I use Burda patterns and always take a well fitting tee shirt or pair of trousers annd check the width of the bust or the hips against the paper pattern. If you are making a jacket or something with a lining make the lining first and then you can see how it fits. It saves you making mistakes on your chosen fabric.
Don't forget to make note of the darts etc.

If in doubt make a bit larger and when finished try it on inside-out and take in the seams with pins.
And don't forget iron at every stage. You can buy little travelling irons which work with batteries or charger and you don't have to struggle with the big iron. (This tip seen on U-tube)

For good fit. the garment should fit at the neck -for a blouse or jacket and at the waist for trousers. If not correct it will never look right.

good luck!

I used to want instant results and couldn't be bothered with accurate measurements or toiles , consequently ended up with some unwearable garments. Since going to a couture dressmaking class where we have to be able to do pattern alterations and fitting, I always do the preparation and it's really worth it. If you have a pattern that fits well you can use it and vary it in loads of ways. Plus you can use more expensive fabric and not worry about wasting it.

I have a few New Look patterns and they're suitable for my size, don't seem to have changed. They're multisize and I choose 12-14.
I wonder if the variation has anything to do with the fact that some clothing ranges these days seem to put a lower-size label than in the past?
ie I've always been UK 12-14, but now going by my measurements, which haven't changed, I'm a 10-12.

Thanks for replies.

Had a chuckle re thong- an experiment years ago and not to be repeated! ( a bit like being bisected by a cheese wire as I recall).

I take the point re toile/measurements etc. Sadly I'm more a "do it quickly" sewer. Otherwise known as impatient by OH.

Will look at Burda.

Indeed -Juggernaut - you could have a bit of fun with little expense on fabric!!!

Yes, I like Burda patterns too because the German sizes are fairly generous. You have to do a bit of calculating from centimetres to inches if you still use imperial measurements but otherwise they are stylish and easy.

I've just bought myself a dressmakers model to get back into sewing and found it very useful for alterations. New Look patterns are half price at the moment though I couldn't say how the sizes compare.

I like Burda patterns, their sizing is pretty generous.
Welshwife, I'm sure you intended to type 'thing' but 'thong' sent me into fits of giggles, if you make many mistakes with a 'thong' you'll soon know about it!

Commercial patterns have a lot of ease in them , the key is to take your own measurements and measure the paper pattern before you decide which size to cut, don't just pick '" size 12" or whatever. It is always useful to make a calico toile and make alterations on there , then transfer to the pattern. This way you will get a good fit. I find Burda patterns the most a accurate in terms of my own body measurements, but everyone is different.

I shall watch this thread as am in a similar position myself - would like to buy a few basic patterns I could use and adapt a few times. I liked Simplicity and had wondered about their current sizing - interesting about McCalls. Not a thong to make many mistakes with given the price of patterns now.