The food industry is also a minefield due to loopholes in regulations that allow bacon from pigs bred in Denmark and Holland to be labelled “British”. The animal can be born, reared and slaughtered abroad but it is perfectly legal to stick a Union flag on the product if the bacon is cured here. Agriculture Minister Jim Paice says: “We’re pushing Europe hard for more honest food labelling so consumers who want to buy British can be sure that’s what they’re doing.”
Another anomaly is “Lincolnshire sausages” that can come from anywhere in the world. But sausage makers in the county are fighting back by seeking protected geographical status for their bangers. If granted by the EU it would ban foreigners from making sausages masquerading as Lincolnshires. Neil Curtis, 52, a Lincoln butcher whose family has been making the real deal since 1828, says: “True Lincolnshire sausages are made using a traditional recipe and top quality ingredients including British pork and sage. They are part of the heritage of the county and that has to be preserved.”
Traditionally cheddar cheese was made within 30 miles of Wells Cathedral in Somerset but the dairy product can legally be made anywhere in the world. Study the label on your cheddar and you might find that it’s a bland, rubbery version from Ireland, Canada or even Belgium.
Much of the confusion over flags of convenience seems to originate when British companies are sold to new foreign owners who pay scant regard to our proud manufacturing history. A classic example is Cadbury, with its long tradition of confectionery making in the UK. Its chocolate, including Britain’s bestselling brand Dairy Milk, is still made in Bournville, Birmingham. However, following the controversial purchase of the company by American giant Kraft, if you fancy a Crunchie or Turkish Delight it will have been manufactured in Poland.
Whatever next, Smarties made in Germany? Well, yes, the popular tubes of sweets now roll off production lines in Hamburg after being made in York by Nestlé for 69 years.
Nothing is as quintessentially English as a cup of tea. Thomas Twining began selling tea from a stand in the Strand in 1706. But today although Twinings still packs tea here, in Andover, Hampshire, if you open one of those little sachets in your hotel room it will have been made in Poland after almost 300 British workers were sacked in an efficiency drive.
With its distinctive Houses of Parliament label surely nothing can be more British than HP sauce? Think again. Despite protests when the decision was announced by Heinz to move from Birmingham after 103 years, the product is now made in Elst in the Netherlands, When it comes to provenance, often all is not as it first seems.